The Caramelles de Sitges

Yesterday I witnessed an event and learned something new about Sitges.

As I worked at my computer, I heard rather loud music emanating from next door. And although this occurs periodically, this particular afternoon it seemed louder than normal; so I investigated… I followed the music and out on my terraza. And it turned out, instead of coming from next door, I looked down on carrer de l’Estalvi and discovered a group of people singing, accompanied by a band.

What was the occasion I asked myself? And remembered it was the end of Easter week, known here as Semana Santa.

What I observed were the Caramelles de Sitges, Catalan songs sung by a group of men to announce the start of Easter and the end of Holy Week. It is a tradition celebrated around the Catalan region. Yesterday, being Easter Monday (el Dilluns de Pasqua / Lunes de Pascua), different groups of singers from around town begin their tour of song on the evening of Holy Saturday (el Dissabte de Glòria / Sábado de Gloria) and sing again all day, today.

A Barretina

It should be noted that the first performance is held at the Town Hall (Ajuntament) before going further a field. 

A group of men wearing the typical cap—la barretina*, go from neighbourhood to neighbourhood, and house to house offering a repertoire of songs. These performances are sung to women in the Spring or today, lyrics can be dedicated to Sitges. They are always sung in Catalan.

The group always carries a very long pole with a basket which is decorated with ribbons, bells and carnations. This is used to reach the balconies of houses and apartments in order to collect gifts of food. Historically, Caramellaires would visit houses to proclaim the Good News of the Resurrection of Christ and in exchange for the news, people would give the singers eggs, sausages and other foods, which indicated that Lent was over. There is evidence that the tradition here dates back to the seventeenth century, although it was different to today. Over the years it has lost some of the religious aspects and the lyrics gradually have included different themes.

One of the most difficult times for the tradition was at the outbreak of the Civil War and the early post-war years. It was a time when music didn’t fill the air and caramelles almost disappeared. But they were recovered in 1941 thanks to a group of young Sitgetans, and former caramellaires active before the war, who got the permit to return to publically sing caramelles. Remember, Franco banned the Catalan language and as a result, caramelles were included in his edict.

Time marches on and in recent years a welcomed evolution in the tradition has occurred—some groups in Sitges have accepted women. So at this time of year, walk around town and hear the music now sung for and by all—the tradition lives on…

Here is a performance posted by Monica Gallardo last Saturday, March 26^th, 2016:

Caramella played by les Caramelles Sitgetanes.

Lyrics and music by Jordi Benet Centaur Pañella.

*Note: A barretina, no longer used in everyday life, is still considered a Catalan symbol and used in traditional fiestas of cultural identity, such as in Sardana dance or by figures seen in nativity scenes.

The book, Les Caramelles de Sitges by Albert Soler Marcé

Published by Grups d'Estudis Sitgetans in Catalan