Yesterday I witnessed an
event and learned something new about Sitges.
As I worked at my
computer, I heard rather loud music emanating from next door. And although this
occurs periodically, this particular afternoon it seemed louder than normal; so I
investigated… I followed the music and out on my terraza. And it turned out, instead
of coming from next door, I looked down on carrer de l’Estalvi and discovered a
group of people singing, accompanied by a band.
What was the
occasion I asked myself? And remembered it was the end of Easter week, known
here as Semana Santa.
What I observed were
the Caramelles de Sitges, Catalan songs sung by a group of men to announce the
start of Easter and the end of Holy Week. It is a tradition celebrated around
the Catalan region. Yesterday, being Easter Monday (el Dilluns de Pasqua / Lunes de
Pascua), different groups of singers from around town begin their tour of song on
the evening of Holy Saturday (el Dissabte de Glòria / Sábado de Gloria) and sing
again all day, today.
A Barretina |
It should be noted that
the first performance is held at the Town Hall (Ajuntament) before going
further a field.
A group of men wearing the typical cap—la barretina*, go from neighbourhood to neighbourhood, and house to
house offering a repertoire of songs. These performances are sung to women in the Spring
or today, lyrics can be dedicated to Sitges. They are always sung in Catalan.
The group always carries
a very long pole with a basket which is decorated with ribbons, bells and carnations.
This is used to reach the balconies of houses and apartments in order to
collect gifts of food. Historically, Caramellaires would visit houses to proclaim
the Good News of the Resurrection of Christ and in exchange for the news, people
would give the singers eggs, sausages and other foods, which indicated that
Lent was over. There is evidence
that the tradition here dates back to the seventeenth century, although it was
different to today. Over the years it has lost some of the religious aspects
and the lyrics gradually have included different themes.
One of the most
difficult times for the tradition was at the outbreak of the Civil War and the
early post-war years. It was a time when music didn’t fill the air and caramelles
almost disappeared. But they were recovered in 1941 thanks to a group of young
Sitgetans, and former caramellaires active before the war, who got the permit
to return to publically sing caramelles. Remember, Franco banned the Catalan
language and as a result, caramelles were included in his edict.
Here is a performance
posted by Monica Gallardo last Saturday, March 26th, 2016:
Caramella
played by les Caramelles Sitgetanes.
Lyrics and
music by Jordi Benet Centaur Pañella.
*Note: A barretina, no longer used in everyday life,
is still considered a Catalan symbol and used in traditional fiestas of
cultural identity, such as in Sardana dance or by figures seen in nativity
scenes.
The book, Les Caramelles de Sitges by
Albert Soler Marcé
Published
by Grups d'Estudis Sitgetans in Catalan